MINI Cooper Warranty and Maintenance Plans Worked for Us
For the past month, the MINI Cooper’s “service engine soon” light has come on, but then it’s gone off just a few days later. I figured it was just some bad fuel and let it go. Since the closest MINI dealership is about 30 miles away, I wanted a few more things to rack up before expending the effort to get it checked out.
But then Stacie started to complain that the CVT transmission wasn’t shifting between 50-65mph properly. I began to worry that we got a lemon with a bad transmission. Luckily the MINI has a 4 year/50,000 mile factory warranty. We bought the car used with 30,000 miles and we it has about 35,000 miles. I’ve used the MINI warranty once in December when MINI towed the car via their factory Roadside Service plan and was pleased with the results.
This time, I set up an appointment to bring the car in and reserved a loaner (it’s a rental from Enterprise). MINI agreed to pay for the first 24 hours (although I got them to extend it without a fight). The only bad part about the whole experience was the long wait to drop off the car, even at 7am on a Monday. By the time I got back home (after a quick side-trip), it was 9am.
But we got much more fixed on the MINI than just the transmission issue. Thanks to the complimentary 3 year/36,000 mile maintenance plan, we got the following done:
- Oil change
- New front and rear wiper blades
- Brake fluid flush
- Cleaned some rust from brake area
- Checked/topped off fluids and tire air
Unfortunately, our plan will run out next month, so we won’t get to take advantage of the free brake pad replacement covered by the maintenance plan. We still have about 50% of our pads and tires left, which is a good thing I guess.
Now I have 1 month to decide to renew the maintenance plan. I’ll be doing my own extensive research because they want about $1300 to renew. I can renew anytime, but if I wait till after the 3 year period (next month), the price jacks up an extra $200. They used some scare tactics like the “Inspection 2″ costs $1100 on average and brake replacement costs $1200 on average. Both are covered by the maintenance plan. I’d like to get your feedback to help me out here. I know extended warranties are usually losses, but what about this specific maintenance plan? I’d like to hear from MINI owners who have experienced this too.
Oh, and by the way, here’s what got fixed under the factory warranty:
- Transmission computer needed reset. It’s an adaptive system and somehow it went a little wacky. Car drives beautifully now and Stacie is noticing better gas mileage
- Oxygen sensor above gas cap needed replaced. This was causing the “Service Engine Soon” light to come on.
And of course we got the car back shined-up on both the outside AND inside! I’m pleased with the service we got at the MINI dealership (which is also a BMW dealer) as is Stacie, and we’re glad that we got her a car that she loves with service plans that actually work without needing to fight with the dealer.
Now when will they put a MINI dealer in Rockville? (There are rumors of one going into D.C…Blah!)
Possibly related posts:
- The MINI Cooper is sick!
- Paid off the MINI Cooper bank loan
- The MINI Cooper is totally ours. Next up…
Like this article? Subscribe to our emails & stay in the loop.
Leave a Comment
If you would like to make a comment, please fill out the form below.
Clever Dude and his bride started with $500k in debt and in just 4 years, it's down to $300k!
If your transmission does that again, just disconnect your battery for a couple hours. You’ll have to ‘re-train’ your car with some mixed driving just after that since it will just go to all it’s default settings.
Where are you doing brake jobs that are 1200 bucks? That seems a little steep to me. Maybe it’s just because it’s a mini, but I’m pretty sure mine is closer to 700 or so when I had it done.
I thought the whole point of a CVT was to not shift . . .
I agree,…$1200 bucks for a brake job?! That’s ludicrous. Even $700 is incredibly high. I would guess a brake job should run about $300, maybe $500 depending on the parts used. Really I wouldn’t know since I do my own brakes.
Does the renewal cover you for another 4 years?
Quite frankly, it seems like you’ve had more than your fair share of problems with that car, so the warranty might be a good idea. And besides,.. it sounds like you’ve been happy with the service you’ve received. So barring any financial inequalities you may find when you do your due diligence, it seems to be a good deal.
You’re both right that I was appalled at the $1200 quote just for brakes. However, to clarify, this is a maintenance plan, not the warranty. The warranty is still good for another 15,000 miles. This maintenance plan covers replaceables on the car like brake pads, oil, wipers, and other fluids, as well as major and minor inspections.
The renewal would give us 3 more years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first.
It’s totally up to you, but if you’re planning to hold on to your MINI for 3 more years, and given Stacie’s commute length and frequency of driving, then you will absolutely need the extended maintenance plan. You’ll likely hit at least one or two more oil changes and another major service interval during that period, and those alone could cost you a lot out of pocket if lots of work needs to be done. Or you could save money by taking it to a non-dealer mechanic, but I have yet to find one in our area who has enough experience to properly handle a MINI.
You’ll also want to extend your warranty before it expires, given that you’ve had two issues already, but that’ll probably cost a couple grand.
As a former BMW driver that has experienced the joy of luxury car maintenance, my advice is to find a mechanic you can trust that specializes in Minis and Euros. See what they would charge for some of the maintenance items, then compare.
I’m looking forward to your findings. We have a MINI, we bought it new in the summer of ’06. We only have 19,000 miles on it (we’re trying to only put 12,000 to make our service plan last as long as possible). We’re trying to decide if we want to get the additional service plan when this one runs out – haven’t decided yet, we still have a while to decide though. I’m looking forward to what you find out.
Have you thought about learning how to maintain your car? I’m 52, only did oil changes, etc until a year ago. I’ve learned how to change brake pads and rotors (among other items) and it really isn’t that difficult. Buy a repair manual, a few tools, etc. Cost: maybe $50-$75. I’ll bet pads/rotors (off the Web) for your Mini can’t run more than $75-$100 per wheel. You just saved $450-$600.
And don’t trust dealer “inspections”. My check engine light went on in my Volvo. The dealer inspection stated: Needs 2 oxygen sensors – $900. Turns out only one sensor truly checks the status of the engine (the other checks the catalytic converter). So I’ve bought a new sensor ($150), a special socket to remove the sensor ($20), a manual ($20), and a diagnostic tool to turn off the Check Engine light ($44 – the dealer charges $54 to do this work each time). Total savings: $670.
I think this is called self-reliance.
When I get to 36,000 miles I’ll probably extend my maintenance warranty on my 2007 Mini Cooper S. A key reason will be for the brake job. My research says that I can expect to need rotor replacement along with the pads. My dealer charges $100 for an oil change (synth. oil + $100 pre hour) and, of course There will be other expensive maintenance issues as well. I get angry when I feel I’m getting screwed, and knowing myself I’ll get angry on perusing those maintenance bills. As I see it, it’s better to pay the $1300 for a maintenance contract than pay the therapist to address newly developed anger issues.
my mini clubman s has been at the dealers for one week and they have reprogramed the computer, replace the computer, replaced All the sensors, replaced the intake manifold with out any cure for the engine misfiring on All cylinders plus the automatics converter not releasing at a stop.. What is the factory limit of days that a dealership can hold my car and are not able to find and repair my 2008 clubman s… I believe it is 23 days.. Please advise.. thanks R Shannon
what is the factory warranty for full replacement of my 2008 clubman s due to the dealer ship not able to repair or find the problem of all four cylinder not firing correctly,they have replaced 6 to 10 parts off a new clubman to find the problem.. I believe it is 23 days to replace it… thanks shannon
@Richard Shannon, I’m not familiar with the length of stay factor, but what about the lemon law in your state? Since the Clubman just came out, I’m sure you got it recently enough to be covered by any lemon law.
Clever Dude:
Where are you going to get a MINI maintenance plan for $1300.00. My dealer wants $2200.00. For $1300.00 I would jump on it.
Any business is not going to sell you $X of service for less than $X. Any savings from their “normal” service prices just shows how expensive they are. Find a local independent that can show and explain problems when they occur.
At $2200 or even $1300 you should consider selling your MINI outright and buying a new one. Chances are you would order a few things different, etc. anyway and would then have a complete new car.
@Karl, unfortunately I’ve actually been eyeing up a new mini for my wife (sell hers outright) because of the potential for costly repairs, specifically for the CVT transmission. But it’s so nice not having a car payment, and it’s only fear and want driving the decision, not need.
The maintenance plan also covers the replacement of the clutch due to normal wear and tear (If you haven’t abused it.). How much does the dealer charge to replace the clutch? If you plan on keeping your MINI it’s almost a no brainer. The only reason I could think of not doing it would be if you lived far, far from the dealer.
I agree with a few above, I am in California and My mini dealer wants $2200 Can someone please let me know what dealership is charging 1300. 1300 is cheap. I would so jump on that. 2007 mini cooper, 32K here
Mark
I bought the maintenance contract just after my original factory warranty expired. The big selling point was the brake job that I was told I would need without a doubt need before the maintenance agreement ran out. I am now about 60 days from the end of the 2 yr maintenace conract and every time I have my Mini in the dealer says I have 6mm left on my pads, so no brake job. This is like the miracle of the loaves because I have put thousands of miles on the car yet apparently have not worn the brakes at all! So for the cost of the maintenance contract I’ve gotten a service 1- oil change, fluids, wiper blades. It was absolutely NOT WORTH THE COST!
@Gerald, I had the same experience with my warranty for my Acura. I spent $1500 or so on a full bumper-to-bumper warranty up to 100,000 miles or 5 years. I hit 95,000 miles just before owning it 4 years and all I used it for what a little LED light behind the fog light button.
I bought the extended warranty for my Honda Ridgeline (again over $1000), but don’t expect to use it, but I’m too chicken to cash it in, knowing as soon as I do, something will go bad! I even have a warranty that I can get a full refund as long as I don’t use it.
I PURCHASED A USED 2007 MINI COOPER WITH WARRANTY FOUR DAYS AGO. THE CAR WAS MAKING SOUNDS WHEN BRAKING, MY FAMILY MECHANIC SAYS I NEED NEW ROTORS. THE DEALER SAYS I DON’T NEED ANYTHING. CAN I RETURN THE CAR? WHAT SHOULD I DO?
@Debbie, it’s a tough call, but I would ask your mechanic what proof he’s using to say you need new rotors. Just the sound? Did he actually take measurements? Do you need new rotors or can he just “machine them” (grind them down to make them even)? I would ask for his measurements as proof, but I don’t think this is grounds for returning the car.
We have a 2006 Mini that we bought new. My dealer suggested buying a maintenance contract and an extended warranty. $6,000! What a deal. BTW, did anyone get scammed on wheel balancing”
I got the maintenance contract because I was told to expect a very expensive brake job during the term of the contract. Two years later, with one week on the contract, the brake sensor still hasn’t come on and dealer will not do brake job unless it does. I have had the car in twice this year and each time ask them to check and replace pads and rotors. The response has been that my pads still – barely – have a millimeter or 2 of wear left and wait for the sensor to come on. My advice would be to NOT purchase the contract, unless you put sufficient miles on your car. I drive about 10K a year and it has not been a good value for me.
I have a 2008 Mini and my warranty is almost up, 5000 mi to go. They want $1895.00 to extend my maintenance warranty. It sounds like from what I read I won’t need it. I think I may pass. A tire shop told me they would do my brakes for $300. I think I may have been taken for the tire rotation as well. I paid $380 for rotation and alignment.
The reason the Mini’s brakes cost so much to repair is that they do not cut the rotors like they would for an american car or for that matter what they might do at a non-Mini dealership garage. When you receive a Mini brake job from the dealer all of the brake components are replaced.
This is an issue near and dear to my heart as I’m now firmly outside the free maintenance period and I’m quickly approaching the expiration of my 50K mile warranty. No doubt, anxiety is a strong motivator to spend money.
@ Kurt: You make an important distinction here, as it’s been true in my experience that dealers will replace both brake pads and rotors when doing a typical brake-job. I’m still not sold on the idea that this distinction makes their service worth the price they’re charging. For example, I know that I can grab a set of Hawk Ceramic brake pads online for less than $200 for both axles, and these pads won’t be plagued by the terrible dusting issues that BMW OEM pads inflict on my wheels. Further, I know I can get a set of brand new high-quality non-OEM rotors, also online, for between $200-300 depending on just how fancy I want to get. Considering that the task of getting the worn components off my car and mounting the new goodies doesn’t take more than 2 hours, even at a dealership’s premium rate of $100/hr, labor costs shouldn’t top $200. By my math, that brake job is worth between $600 and $700, yet I’ve also heard my service adviser scaring other customers into purchasing the maintenance plan because the job alone would EASILY cost $1200…
I’m leaning towards going the same route pkaia did and investing an afternoon in doing a proper brake job on my own, and I expect that paying $400 in total for higher-quality components will feel especially satisfactory.
Still…before making any final decisions I need to look over all of the other things that would be covered by the extended maintenance plan. I have a sneaking suspicion the truth won’t be much. Changing my oil a handful of times, performing the much-feared brake job, replacing my wiper blades, and topping off my ‘fluids’ each time I stop in…this doesn’t sound like a $2K value. I’m not sure it even sounds like a $1K value.
When you buy a Mini at the dealership, does the warranty only get covered by them? I want to buy a Mini, but the closest is about 100 miles away. If I were to buy one and something was to happen, could I take it to a local BMW shop? OR any certified mechanic?
@Cameron: When you purchase a new Mini, it is my understanding that the 4 year/50K mile warranty provides coverage for repairs made exclusively through Mini dealerships.
It would be worth contacting your local BMW showroom to inquire if they are authorized to perform warranty work on your Mini. It sounds pretty logical, but it would be the first I’ve heard of it.
Without a doubt, however, no independent repairs will be covered by the factory warranty.
I have been driving my mini for more than 100000 miles and I never spend more than 200 dollar in a brake job and my car still driving like new.
My mini has 36,500 miles and needs front brakes – the indicator came on last week. I called the local indenpendents ant they wanted $500-600 for the fronts only. So, more calling and I found a “regional” tire and brake company that I’ve done business with in the past with domestic cars that says they can do it for $370. That’s were I’m going.
I’m about to extend my maintenance warranty on a 2007 Mini Cooper. I haven’t had to spend a dime on the car since I bought it and the peace of mind is worth it – even if it’s a hefty sum for me. There was one issue with my heat not working that was fixed promptly.
After reading the comments I think the confusion is that $1300 refers to the 3/yr maintance warranty while the $2200+ refers to the 4 yr/Vehicle Warranty which I believe includes almost anything going wrong – with the exception of tires/new tires/rotating tires. I’m thinking of saving up for that next year as I hope to drive my Mini as long as possible.
Id like to call you names but Id rather call you Clever Dude…30 miles from the dealership and you cant make time to take the MINI to get checked, I have to drive 150 miles to the nearest dealership to get maint done but it was all worth it.
i have the e/w on my 07 convert mini how do i find out which e/w i have & is there a website i can download it from i live in lv and have had the WORST SERVICE at our dealership here & i’m not the only customer here who complains about them i got better service/auto reminders for oil changes etc at toyot0 than this place my brake lite pad replacement came on 1 wk ago but isn’t sad that you can’t take to them w/o it probably costing out of pocket which u know will happen i only want to see them for oil changes etc whats covered under the warranty so my ? is when i turn on the it reads 9725 total miles 17386 i had an oil change @ 1,000 miles when am i due again ps my d/sun visior came undone from the screws help!!!!!
see above
I have a 09 Cooper with a 6-Speed Automatic. MINI doesn’t offer a CVT. CVTs are shiftless. You wouldn’t notice any shifting with one. I am trading however for a 6-speed manual because I’ve already had to have the transmission serviced twice in one year. I would go with a manual if you’re gonna trade up, otherwise extend the maintenance program. It’s well worth the potential savings.
@Shameless1, they offered them prior to 2007 (not sure about 2006, but our 2005 has it). Since it’s the wife’s car, and she can’t drive manual, we got the auto, thinking it wouldn’t be a problem. However, we’re at 60,000 miles and still no problems from it except for a couple computer resets and then a transmission fluid change at about 55k miles ($330, another overcharge).
As a note, I bought the materials to do my own transmission oil and rear diff oil changes for my 06 Ridgeline for $80. I don’t want to guess how much Mini would charge for that (if they had rear diffs)
The whole issue with buying the warranty depends on your driving habits. If you jackrabbit and mash your breaks, drive in rural areas and barely see the highway, it’s totally worth it because the “scary” sum they throw at you for the brake jobs always includes new rotors, which are not always necessary (unless you drive like the above description). I have had my 2005 Cooper S for 5 years now and put more than 100,000 highway miles on it. I’m still on my original clutch and have changed the brakes twice in five years, the rotors only once. If you are ginger with your Mini, it doesn’t pay. I also agree that if you learn how to do some of the basic work yourself (oil change, brakes, radiator flush etc) or find a great mechanic specializing in BMW/Mini euro cars would save a lot of dough. I only take my car to the dealer when I have the milestone services due that require a bit more work than I can handle or that would benefit me having the dealer due (ie timing belt etc). Save the $1500 on maintenance and put it towards parts and an education. ALSO, it doesn’t pay to sell your car and buy a new one. Most people forget the extra cost of the insurance that’s involved with a new car. That is money too. Keep your old car, lower your coverage to a reasonable coverage, save money that way. Buying a new car will not only guarantee that you have monthly payments for life, but your insurance premium will always be high (compared to a five year old vehicle that is decreased in value and doesn’t need FULL insurance coverage). Taking the insurance savings into account (unless you live out in the boonies where everything is dirt cheap anyway) you’ll see that keeping your car until it is dead is the best way to go. Add up the cost of your monthly payments, compare your FULL coverage insurance to a more modest reduced yet effective insurance policy and you’ll see that once you’ve paid your car off in full and reduce your insurance you could save thousands of dollars a year. My break even point is $5,500. This means that if the cost of my repairs total more than $5,500 per year, it’s time to buy a new car because I will spend as much as $5,500 more than what I’m currently paying to get a new car. I’ve paid off my care two years ago, do not have extended warranty, still go to the dealer to get service done and this year alone (2010) it’s cost me only $1200. I have one more service to do and it should run me about $3000 total ( I have a milestone service, tires and a few other quirks to take care of). That is still cheaper than an additional $1500/yr insurance plus $3,500/yr in car payments. Unless something severely major breaks down I’ll have had my money in the bank, working for me – not for the dealer and insurance companies. You have to do your calculations and see what best works for you. You work too hard for your money. They make money when you don’t educate yourself.
Work smart, not hard.
Just wondering how much does it cost to buy an extended warranty for a mini cooper s 2008? I leased it and decided to buy it. I just wanted to get an idea how much money I have to put aside for an extended warranty. I am from the bayarea (Northern California).
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
@Mona, can’t recall about the warranty, but I know it cost $1800 for a 100k mile/6 year maintenance plan on our “new” 07 MINI Cooper S. However, we got it for half-off (taken off the price of the car), and we’ve already made that money back with new brakes ($900) and then a new timing chain and updated programming.
I would think the warranty is around $2k or more, but call your local MINI dealer to be certain. You can usually negotiate a couple hundred off too.
Purchased a Cooper S ’07 in ’08 new. I have 14+K on it. Dealer wanted 300.00 per year for run flat tire insurance. Discount Tire Insured tires for 179.00 for ten years or when they wear outl. Had to replace 1 tire, cost 300.00. My cost, 50.00 to insure the new tire.
I have an 06 cooper s. The sensor for the brake pads just came on, and on most minis and bmws you have to replace the rotors as they can not be resurfaced. For the front brake pads, new rotors, and sensor to be replaced it is $320.